Lawry's the Prime Rib

$ $ $

Traditionalists like longtime Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant critic Heidi Knapp Rinella like Lawry’s for its Art Deco design and its many other nods to tradition.

“One of the best things about Lawry’s is how consistent it is, with consistently top-quality food and service as well as atmosphere,” she said.

The specialty’s right there in the name. Lawry’s has had a lot of years of getting it right – in California since 1938 and Las Vegas since 1997 – and does it seemingly effortlessly.

Massive primal cuts are rolled out of the kitchen in hooded silver-colored carts, for the meat to be carved tableside. Dinner includes the Spinning Bowl Salad for a bit of performative art, plus traditional sides, crusty sourdough and of course puffy Yorkshire pudding.

For decades Lawry’s was all prime rib, all the time, but the Las Vegas branch has broadened its menu considerably with steaks, chicken, seafood dishes such as Salmon Rockefeller and the vegetarian king oyster mushrooms with farro and basil pesto.

Reservations are recommended, but get there a little early for a classic cocktail in the bar and some house-made potato chips.

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