Lemongrass

The most sumptuous of Las Vegas’ Thai restaurants, Lemongrass bills its fare as “a modern interpretation of Thai cuisine." Yet it gives plenty of attention to the classics, in an atmosphere designed to evoke the country’s silk factories.

You could start with something traditional, like beef, shrimp or chicken from the satay grill, or perhaps some potstickers. Or you could break out a bit with crispy marinated squid or Thai ceviche with mango, chile-lime and cilantro.

For noodles, traditionalists can stick with Pad Thai. But maybe try it with beef ribeye, which is definitely off the beaten path. Or perhaps venture out with the wok-fried noodles with crabmeat and X.O. sauce.

Thai basil is celebrated in a dish that might feature duck, chicken, pork, beef or shrimp, and fried rice with soft-shell crab, pineapple, duck or basil-beef. And here’s something you won’t find on many Thai menus in Las Vegas: braised baby abalone, prepared in a clay pot with lettuce, shiitake mushrooms and brown sauce.