Fratelli’s Pizza Kitchen

Fratelli’s name tends to undersell it, because this Water Street District spot from three brothers hailing from Staten Island is far more than a pizza joint.

A place that centers its business on house-made dough should make some formidable garlic knots, and Neon Feast contributor and former Review-Journal restaurant critic Heidi Knapp Rinella loves their buttery, garlicky indulgence. They’re a great way to start, as are the arancini in two varieties -- Neapolitan Rice Ball or Sicilian Rice Ball (the latter with the addition of ground beef, peas and red sauce). Or perhaps begin with a Jamaican Beef Patty, an offbeat choice that adds New York flavor.

Spaghetti, lasagna and all the other familiars are there, as well as salads, hot and cold sandwiches and calzones. And the pizza. Some simple varieties are available by the slice, but if you’re feeling adventurous, go with one from the “gourmet” category, such as clams with red or white sauce, Buffalo chicken with a ranch drizzle or grilled chicken with basil, garlic and tomato.